I flew into Heathrow in late August for an overseas holiday. First stop was the Silverstone Classic, Britain’s biggest historic motor racing event. Over the Bank Holiday weekend (26 – 28 August 2022) it featured three days of on-track action for classic racing cars from the 1960’s, 70’s, and 80’s (with a race for pre-war cars as a bonus). As you can see, the weather was gorgeous — and so were the cars.
(Click on any image for a full size view, than arrow or click left and right through the gallery.)
Classics On & Off Track1960’s Sports CarsJag C-Type v LotusJag C-TypeSilverstone MarshallsJag & TR4 Trying Hard1970’s Formula 1McLaren MP4Group C Le Mans CarsWhoops!Somewhat AgitatedOut of the Kitty LitterBrooming UpNeed a Push?McLaren M8FMustang & Cobra CoupeHealy v JagMustang v JagJaguar E-TypesTVR Trying HardJag v HealyJag Also Trying Hard1960’s Formula 1Maserati 250FCooper v BRMLotus 251930’s RaceThere & BackMercedes SSK on the Inside LineGoodbye SilverstoneSilverstone Classic 2022
Hadrian’s Wall
After the Classic I met up with a buddy in London. He’s interested in Roman archeology and I’m keen on long walks, so we’d decided to combine our interests by walking Hadrian’s Wall Path together. This 135km long trail follows the course of the eponymous wall — which, in Roman times, protected the settled lands of England from the savage Scots to the north.
Day One: Bowness to Carlisle (23km)
We started by taking a train to Carlisle, near the western, or Cumbrian, trailhead. Next morning we caught the (very) early morning bus to the actual start of the trail on the coast at Bowness on Solway. From there it was a 23 km walk back along the Solway Flats, and through some very pretty villages, to Carlisle. Along the way we visited St Michael’s Church where King Edward I (the “Hammer of the Scots”) lay in state after perishing of dysentery on the Solway sands in 1307. A statue at nearby Burgh (“Broff”) by Sands commemorates his reign.
An Acorn Marks the PathBowness on SolwayGreat Balls of HayThe Solway FlatsStatue of King Edward ISt Michael’s ChurchKissing GatesVillage Church
Day Two: Carlisle to Brampton (20km)
The second day featured some nice walking through pretty farm country, but still no visible remnant of the wall. After the Romans left Britain, generations of local farmers used it as a source of dressed stone for their own fences and houses. By the time some 19th century landowners decided there was history here worth saving, only some decapitated stretches in the centre highlands remained.
Fort Outside CarlisleA Border FarmCows!Old BarnsBrampton Pub Guard
Day Three: Brampton to Haltwhistle (25km)
From Brampton we left the environs of Carlisle and started climbing into hill country — only stopping for tea and scones at the Birdoswold Roman fort and museum. The first stretches of wall appeared today, along with occasional foundation stones of the mile forts that the Romans built every Roman mile (1,481 metres) along the wall. We left the trail at Greenhead, taking a taxi to Haltwhistle, where we were booked for the night at the marvellous Old Schoolhouse B&B (Ian, the very friendly host, met us at the door with the question, “would you like a beer?”).
Leaving BramptonCows!Farm GateBlackberries in SeasonFarm HorseStyle Over a Stone FenceLunch Visitor, BirdoswoldThe WallIrthing Valley FarmBridge Abutment by River IrthingInscription in Wall StoneFort by Greenhead
Day Four: Haltwhistle to Bardon Mill (20km)
Ian today continued to demonstrate how well The Old Schoolhouse looks after walkers by driving us back to the path at the Roman Army Museum near Greenhead. This small museum (and dig site) was well worth a short visit before we started walking up a series of remote, wind-swept crags that define the central stretch of the path. These are an extension of the Pennines, the mountain spine separating Great Britain into right and left halves, and the best bits of the wall are here, along with the most spectacular views. Even on the crags, though, so much stone has been looted that the wall seldom reaches more than a metre or so high. We ended the day at the “Bowes Hotel”, a few rooms above the pub in the tiny village of Bardon Mill. That evening I visited the bar to find the village’s annual Leek Auction in full flow.
Approaching Walltown CragWalltown Crag North of GreenheadLooking NorthRemains of the WallLooking EastOld QuarryThe CragsGene & FriendWindswept CountryGene, Walking UphillRomans Cut Down All the TreesThe WallFellow Walkers on the PathHigh Point of the PathBowes Hotel Leek AuctionAuction Loot
Day Five: Vindolanda (4km)
A rest day today as we visited the excellent Roman museum and dig sit at Vindolanda, only covering a few kilometres in the afternoon when we relocated from Bardon Mill to the pub hotel at Twice Brewed.
Day Six: Twice Brewed to Chollerford (23km)
From Twice Brewed it was a short walk back up on the crags for more spectacular views following the wall. We stopped for lunch at Housesteads, where there’s a small museum and you can see the foundations of a large Roman fort. By afternoon we were dropping back down to lower, flatter farm county. An hour out from Chollerford, and the George Hotel, we got the first real rain of the whole walk and arrived thoroughly wet. This was a good chance to appreciate the difference between European style pub-to-pub walking as opposed to North American style backpacking with a tent!
Sycamore GapHill FarmCrag LoughGreenlee LoughWindshear CragsMile FortRoman ArchLooking Back to HousesteadsGene Admires The WallBroomlee LoughA Modern FarmerBorder Collies at Work
Day Seven: Chollerford to Heddon (31km)
I anticipated a dull day today as we were back in farm country, with the path frequently paralleling a nearby motorway. Instead, it was a nice day of easy walking, with good views and the cars usually out of sight. But what defined the day was the stopping, not the walking. First up was Errington Coffee House, right on the path, in time for an early lunch of scones and raspberry jam. In the afternoon, we paused for a beer at the Robin Hood pub, a popular pick up point, and also right on the path. In consequence we were a little late reaching our night’s stay at the Heddon Lodge B&B.
First Sight of River TyneErrington Coffee HouseRobin Hood PubGene in a Tunnel
Day Eight: Heddon to Newcastle (20km)
An early start and a misty, wet morning made for an atmospheric walk down to the banks of the Tyne River. But the nice river walk soon gave way to the scruffy outer suburbs of Newcastle and a rather anti-climactic end to the walk. Still, it was a great experience to spend eight days in The North, perhaps the prettiest and (almost certainly) the friendliest region of all England. (Note: You may have noticed my daily mileages add up to more than the official 135km length of the path; these were recorded by my Apple Watch and include the extra distance incurred for detours, site-wanders, trekking to accommodation off the trail, and getting lost.)
Germany / Bavaria
From Newcastle, Gene and I took a train back to Heathrow, flying to Düsseldorf the next day to meet friends for a week in southern Germany. Together we visited medieval villages and historic sites and enjoyed Oktoberfest (including lots of the South German staples of beer, bread, potatoes, and sausage!). Didn’t take many photos, but Nördlingen (battlefield and city), the Bavarian Army museum, and the incredible arms and armour collection at Castle Vespe-Coburg were high points. We even managed a side trip to check out the pilsener in Pilsen, Czechia for a couple of days.
Singer in Rothenburg CathedralBavarian Army Museum, IngolstadtKarlovy VaryNördlingenPilsen, CzechiaVespe-Coburg CollectionBamberg Town HallBamberg Cathedral
London / HMS Belfast
From Düsseldorf it was back to London, where I had two free days before flying home. The highlight was visiting HMS Belfast, a WWII era light cruiser now moored next to Tower Bridge in the Thames as a floating museum. The analogue systems used to drive this pre-computer, 600 foot long, 11,500 ton ship through the sea at 32 knots, hit targets fifteen miles away with its dozen six-inch guns, and support a crew of 800 souls were incredible — in both their complexity and their sturdy, mechanical beauty.
HMS BelfastForedeckAnchorLooking EastForward 6″ Gun Turrets6″ GunBelow Decks Steering StationDentist’s OfficeKitchenEngine Room GuagesEngine RoomOil Fired Steam BoilerBoiler RoomBoiler Control WheelsMore GaugesLots of Brass on a ShipAnd Lots of PipesTower Bridge From the Boat DeckFire Direction SightTwin 40mm Bofors AAWater Cooled BoforsSignalling LampsRadar RoomThe BridgeLondon from HMS Belfast
Directed by Hans-Bruno Kammertöns; starring Michael Schumacher, et al…
After a fifty-year drought we’ve reached a golden age of motor racing film and television. There have been major features that weren’t awful — Rush (2013) and Ford v Ferrari (2019) — and a documentary that wasn’t dull — Senna (2010). Netflix’s riveting fly-on-the-wall racing reality show, Formula 1: Drive to Survive, is currently filming its fourth season. And Netflix also just released its own documentary on a racing legend: Schumacher.
Early Life and Career
Michael Schumacher was a prodigy from the start, racing internationally (and winning) in Karts from the age of twelve, before moving on to sports cars and lower formulae cars. In 1991 he landed in the rarified world of Formula 1 like a bombshell. At his first race, on the daunting Spa Francorchamps circuit, he put his underfunded Jordan 7th on the grid — faster than his more experienced teammate, and far closer to the front than that car had any right to be. A great rivalry was predicted between the new ace and Ayrton Senna, who had dominated the sport since the mid ’80’s. Alas, it was not to be. Senna was killed at Imola in early 1994, just as Schumacher and his Benetton team were becoming serious title rivals. Schumacher went on to win the championship that year, and it was the start of a remarkable decade in which he reigned almost alone at the top of the sport.
Schumacher in the Jordan
Full disclosure: back in the day I usually cheered for Senna and Schumacher’s rivals. Despite being blessed with more than enough talent to succeed honourably, both these legends brought a win at all costs mentality to the track that too often showed itself in overly aggressive, even dirty, driving. They coarsened the sport and set a bad example for younger drivers such that F1 is still struggling to re-establish standards for clean, hard racing that prevent the blocking and bullying “back off or we’ll crash” manoeuvres normalized by Senna and Schumacher.
The Senna documentary framed his uncompromising will to win as a shining example of the human drive for excellence. And I can understand why the Brazilian was revered by legions of fans despite his on-track ruthlessness. Handsome, mystical, and touched with an unearthly talent, he oozed charisma. But the jut-jawed, dour, and Germanic Michael Schumacher, whose inner life remained largely hidden? I could never understand why so many adored him. Surely their rabid enthusiasm was a kind of crude power worship, a fawning abasement at the altar of fame and success, regardless of how it was achieved?
It’s interesting, then, that this first full-length recounting of Schumacher’s life focusses more on the man behind the motor racing legend than his on-track career. Family support for the project gave German filmmaker Hans-Bruno Kammertöns access to previously unseen home movie footage and opened the door to extensive, remarkably candid interviews with most of Schumacher’s family, friends, and teammates. The result is a remarkably intimate portrait of the private Schumacher — a man previously unseen except by his inner circle.
The film’s opening section briefly recounts his childhood before the surprises start with the young Schumacher’s kart racing adventures with his dad. He’s a fresh-faced, working-class boy exuberantly enjoying his racing — a broad, infectious smile never far from his face. When he reaches F1, the early successes are followed by his signature move: an exuberant leap for joy high above the winner’s podium. The private footage of Schumacher partying and singing karaoke with his mechanics and rival drivers after a race, looking with open adoration at his wife, Corinne, or playing with his young children, show that even after becoming a star he enthusiastically embraced life as a family man. Close associates always claimed that the real Schumacher was a fun-loving, affectionate homebody, quite different from his closed off and ruthless persona. Here, for the first time, the rest of us can see what they were talking about.
Was it a certain introverted shyness, or the pressures of stardom that caused Schumacher to keep his inner life so hidden? Regardless, this look at Michael Schumacher’s private world is the best aspect of the documentary and will be a revelation, even to his fans. For me, I’d forgotten what a breath of fresh air Schumacher was when he first reached F1. Those were the years of the bitter Senna-Prost rivalry when races would end, not with the happy winner jumping off the podium, but with the two antagonists glaring daggers at each other.
A Paradox
Unsurprisingly, this family endorsed project is not nearly so candid when it comes to the other side of Schumacher’s character: the ruthless, win at all costs competitor we saw on track. Schumacher’s willingness, while still F1’s new boy, to break his contract with Jordan after a single race, and join the better funded Benetton team, isn’t mentioned. Nor do we hear about the infamous 2006 Monaco GP, when Schumacher deliberately spun during qualifying to block the track and thus protect his provisional pole position.
Other incidents, too famous or significant to leave out, are covered, but as sympathetically as possible. The treatment of 1994’s title deciding race is typical: Schumacher ran off the road while in the lead and, rather than parking against the barriers, steered his wrecked but moving car back on track in front of rival Damon Hill. Schumacher associates explain away the ensuing crash as a racing incident, his only fault, in their telling, being competitive instincts so strong he always kept going, even in hopeless situations. Not quoted are other, less sympathetic observers, who saw the move as a deliberate attempt to take out a rival. (Successfully in this case; with both cars out of the race, Schumacher kept his lead in the points and won his first F1 championship.)
Schumacher & Villeneuve
It’s harder to justify Imola, 1997, when Schumacher again hit a title rival, in this case deliberately driving into Jacques Villeneuve rather than let him pass. Schumacher only crashed himself out, though, and Villeneuve went on to take the 1997 championship (still Canada’s only F1 title). The documentary again uses friendly witnesses to put the collision in the best possible light — but even these can reveal more than you expect. Ross Brawn was engineering Schumacher that day and recalls that he returned to the pits fuming with rage and utterly convinced that Villeneuve was the one in the wrong! Brawn knew Schumacher well and testifies that this belief was quite sincere. Only after much arguing, and repeated views of the replay (which is unambiguous), did Schumacher finally acknowledge reality and admit he was in the wrong. (An offence so egregious the governing body stripped him of his 1997 points.)
Equally revealing is the interview in which a friend recalls asking Schumacher whether he had ever been wrong in his whole life. Apparently, Schumacher thought about it for a moment, and then quite seriously answered, “no”!
What combination of early success, public acclaim, competitive pressure, and the affirmation of rabid fans can make a seemingly normal person so utterly blind to their own behaviour? Schumacher is far from the only sporting legend to behave like this. Top level sports have become so competitive it really does seem that successful athletes need to maintain a level of self-belief almost indistinguishable from self-delusion (even insanity). This is a topic well worth exploring, but the film is content to leave it with the rationale that, in his own mind at least, Schumacher never believed he was acting badly (a conviction so strong even multiple penalties never dented it).
Having thus whitewashed Schumacher’s culpability for the 1994 and 1997 incidents, the documentary chooses to make a big fuss about David Coulthard’s behaviour at the rain-soaked 1998 Spa Francorchamps race. In the opening laps Coulthard knew his damaged car was about to be passed by the much faster Schumacher and eased off at the entry to Pouhon corner to let him by. Not expecting this, and blinded by the rain, Schumacher ploughed into the back of Coulthard in a vicious, high-speed accident. His reality distortion field kicked in and Schumacher returned to the pits in a raging fury. Tearing off his helmet he went looking for Coulthard, shrieking that the McLaren driver had tried to kill him. Although Coulthard later admitted he shouldn’t have lifted while on the racing line, this was an honest racing incident where both drivers misjudged what the other was doing. That’s quite different from the many times Schumacher deliberately blocked, drove into, or intimidated other drivers on track. But, since this is one racing incident where the balance of blame is on the other driver, the film strenuously re-litigates it in a brazen attempt to establish a false equivalency to Schumacher’s more sinister moves. Coulthard’s crash even features in the teaser trailer. This goes beyond whitewashing; it’s is outright disinformation.
Schumacher & Coulthard
Moving to Ferrari
At the end of 1995, after two winning world championships with Benetton, Schumacher abruptly moved to the legendary but underperforming Ferrari team. This is framed as a desire to find “fresh challenges” (with no mention of the wedge of cash that accompanied them). And there certainly were challenges aplenty at Ferrari; it was the beginning of four wilderness years during which his driving abilities and strength of character were tested as never before.
The Schumacher the film wants us to focus on is the inspiring leader who dragged Ferrari out of the doldrums and turned them into a championship winning team again. This section makes up the bulk of its run time.
Ferrari had spent years in the doldrums when Schumacher arrived, brought low by its own poisonous politics and outdated technical standards. While the team rebuilt itself around him, it took all of his prodigious talent — driving the wheels off sub-standard cars — and all his determination as a leader to hold the team together through years of toil, disappointment, and near misses. This period is shown through magnificent race footage and (again) extensive private film of the behind-the-scenes action. We see Michael endlessly testing with the team, staying late into the night with his mechanics as they repair yet another broken car. Here is Schumacher at his best; a driving prodigy with a fierce will to win, it would have been understandable had his struggles with Ferrari’s uncompetitive cars turned him into a prima donna. Instead, he became the opposite; a loyal team player whose total commitment kept him working harder and staying later than anyone else. An inspiring leader, Schumacher genuinely deserves credit for Ferrari’s eventual return to the winner’s circle.
But not all the credit, and this is where the documentary again leaves out so much it amounts to disinformation. Luca di Montezemolo, head of Ferrari, had recruited an ace Team Manager in Jean Todt even before Schumacher arrived. With his star driver on board, Todt was able to lure Technical Director Ross Brawn and Chief Designer Rory Byne over from Benetton. Together, this may have been the greatest collection of talent ever assembled in a single team. Equally remarkable, di Montezemolo successfully shielded Todt and his crew from Ferrari’s corporate politics, defending them when success didn’t come immediately, and providing the time and funding they needed to build proper foundations for success.
More than any other sport, motor racing is a combination of athlete and equipment; both driver and car must be excellent to win. With Todt providing the organizational skills and racing strategy, and Brawn and Byrne delivering a series of every more competitive cars, they eventually delivered the equipment Schumacher needed. Yet Schumacher, the film, doesn’t mention their contribution at all, even though di Montezemolo, Todt, and Brawn feature heavily in its interviews.
With Ferrari
A real shame because they were equal partners in an amazing accomplishment. When the championships came, they came in flood: five in a row from 2000 to 2004. Such dominance for so long by a single driver was unprecedented; Schumacher smashed almost every record: most championships, most wins, most fastest laps… Not that you would know from watching this film. After focussing so much on the character-building years, it pushes the Ferrari championships into its brief final chapter; all we get are impressions of Schumacher crossing various finishing lines and jumping off podiums, accompanied by a few period sound bites randomly commenting on how great he was. His life since is treated equally hastily.
Weighing Up
And this is where Schumacher’s storytelling method goes from merely annoying to infuriating. If you want to be one of the cool kids in the documentary world these days, you have to “show not tell” to a ridiculous degree. Any use of an omniscient narrator or bridging commentary to actually tell your audience what’s going on would brand you a fuddy-duddy. So, throughout its run, Schumacher relies almost exclusively on period commentary and clips from its contemporary interviews to stitch the story together. When there’s enough time and material, this works reasonably well. But, when so much ground has to be covered so quickly, as in its closing chapter, we’re left with elliptical references to events about which we’re told frustratingly little.
Thus, the highlights of Schumacher’s later life are alluded to without any attempt to answer the questions they raise:
Why did Schumacher retire from Ferrari so abruptly after his five world championships — obviously before he was ready? (Rumblings at the time hinted of discontent with Ferrari being too obvious about lining up a successor to their aging star);
Although Schumacher obviously enjoyed having more time for his family during retirement, why didn’t he find some new pursuit or profession beyond just channelling his prodigious energy into daredevil sports?; and
Why was he not more successful during his short-lived return to the sport with Mercedes? (The film says nothing about the former legend tooling around in mid-field, the only possible allusion a seemingly random comment from David Coulthard: “I could tell I was missing moves at thirty-seven I wouldn’t have missed when I was younger”).
Schumacher’s horrific 2013 skiing accident is treated with similar indirectness. He has not been seen in public since and little is known beyond the fact he suffered a brain injury. The family has refused to discuss his medical condition and the only thing Corrine will say is: “Michael is here. Different but here. He still shows me how strong he is every day.” For now, that remains the final word.
Michael & Corinne Schumacher
Ultimately, the good parts of Schumacher are good enough that this film can’t be ignored or written off as a mere hack job. The period racing footage is fantastic, the behind-the-scenes coverage is revelatory, and an amazing assortment of Schumacher’s family, friends, and close associates have agreed to speak on the record, some for the first time. However, the omissions and whitewashing of other aspects of Schumacher’s character are such that the documentary should come with a warning label. And the elliptical method of storytelling means that, if you want more than impressionistic vignettes of his life and career, you’ll need to watch with Wikipedia open beside you.
For me, it’s disappointing that the film never quite grapples with the immense contradiction between the private Schumacher and the racing legend. But, if the man himself remains a mystery, I finally understand why his fans adored him so.